The Value of Hand Tools

[Watchman]

If TSHTF, hand tools will be worth their weight in gold. I have never been much of a good steward of hand tools but that changed about a year or so ago. I keep them in good shape and am extremely jealous when daughter or son-in-law borrow them. Maybe jealous is not the right word - picky is more like it. I raise the roof if they leave it outside. I hand-sharpen saws (including my chains for chain saw). My routine is to knock the dirt off at the end of the season, tighten, and if necessary, oil. I actually sharpen all bladed tools. If anyone has the chance read the book "When Technology Fails" (such as in the case of an EMP attack!). It is wealthy in ideas.

[bobpick]

I have my tools locked up tight. My stepson would "borrow" them and leave them out, so I put an end to that. I have a couple of almost everything and I have screws/nails all over the place.

Key to any survival are heavy duty staples, I have two staplers with about a thousand staples. I say it's key because duct tape holding up the plastic can give out with extreme cold. It's best to do overkill when your life depends on it.

[bee_pipes]

We are fortunate in that we have a healthy Mennonite community in the area. They have good tools, though usually won't sell them while they are still good. If nothing else, you can get ideas from these auctions about making do and making your own. You also get to see some stuff that hasn't been around since FDR electrified America.

One example is a drill press I saw. It was completely manual. The device mas made to be bolted to a sturdy wall and was powered by a heavy flywheel. You turned the flywheel by hand until you got it up to the desired rpm. The gears involved were automobile quality for the drive train. There were all sorts of adjustment points for the table, vernier controls, and just about anything imaginable. This was obviously a manufactured tool, but the production of tools like these has not been feasible since we lost our minds and got so dependent on electricity.

Don't get me wrong - I think sawing a board with a hand saw is a nusiance, and building a shed with just a hand saw would drive a saint to swear, but when the electricity runs out, that's where we will find ourselves.

Goes back to the right tool for the right job. You won't just be able to use a n electric circular saw for all jobs - you'll need a rip saw, cross cut saw, etc. Basically, rebuilding grandpa's work shop.

There are a number of other interesting items - hand operated lathes, routers, etc. Lots of good ideas out there, and more likely to see them here than in town.

Regards,
Pat

[bobpick]

I'm done building things, but that doesn't mean my old house won't be damaged by stupid people. Actually, I need to pick up some lumber this weekend and make some braces for my bunker's door.

"Not by the hair of my chinny chin chin!" if you know what I mean.

I also need to make a solar cooker. And planting boxes for my winter crop in my bunker.

[Toepopper]

I picked up a used, but in good condition, 6' 2 man crosscut saw for felling trees. Otherwise known as a "MISERY WHIP" these saws were used prior to the advent of the modern lightweight chainsaw in the logging industry. Paid $10. for it at a garage sale. Hopefully I will never have to cut firewood with it, but its in my toolshed just in case the gas and oil stops flowing.

[dejure]

I stole a saying for my shop: "The reason I have what you want is 'I never lent it out before.'"

On tools and such, let us not forget to stock up on oil, grease or whatever we need to store iron equipment long term. I stored my bran new Unisaw for a year and had to pull out my granite polishing equipment to clean up the surface rust. The upside was that the surface looked better than factory when I was done, but now I'll remember to at least oil the surfaces before they have to park for any period.

[Watchman]

Yes, this does have to with hand tools. When I get an oil change I take my own oil with instructions that I want the empty gallon bottle back. There is always enough lubricant residue to use in the shop.

[dejure]

This is probably old news to many of you, I started using this means about twenty-five years ago, but stopped for a while, because the "pro's said it wasn't the best way and should be done using high tech equipment and such.

You can use glass, but I prefer granite (it's free from most granite places, since they have to pay to haul it off to the dump). The main thing is you want a very flat surface. Next, trot off to an auto paint supply store and pick up some wet-or-dry sand paper in the 1500, 2000, 3000 range. Coarser grades can be gotten anywhere, but stay with wet or dry, or jump to stones (e.g., diamond, carbide, or whatever).

If you glue (e.g., spray glue) the paper to the honing surface, it will be less likely to crease and tear, but you can use water to create adhesion, just go slow and be careful. Depending on the condition of your blade, you can start at whatever grit seems appropriate. That may be 180, 220, 400, again, it's dependent on the condition of the edge. Generally, you can double grits, but always use the next finer grit to remove the tell tale signs of the previous grits. By the time you're done, you can have a mirror finish and it takes far less long than you might imagine.

I have granite polishing heads that fit on my variable speed grinder. You can by these on line or at a local supplier. I've used the 3000 grit head to polish knife blades and they turn out remarkable. You can also pick up some Harbor Freight buffing heads and some stainless steel polish to do the same thing, but by the time you hit 3k grit, you've already got a pretty impressive surface,

There is a guy now claiming fame for the sandpaper system, it's called the "Scary Sharp" system and you can run that name for more tips.